Assembly time: 60-70 minutes 

the iBoardbot
the iBoardbot

 ASSEMBLING THE IBOARDBOT KIT THE PREMIUM KIT TROUBLESHOOTING IBOARDBOT FORUM 

 GO TO iBoardbot WebAPP user guide

GO TO iBoardbot Connectivity wizard guide

 

iBoardbot´s BILL OF MATERIALS:

  • GT2 timing belt (two segments of 53+100 cms)
  • pulley gt2 20 tooth
  • 1x 608 bearing
  • 1x 623 bearing
  • Stainless steel round bar (8mmØ,450mm length)
  • 2x round aluminium tube (6mmØ, 205 mm length, anodized)
  • 4x 30 cms servo cable extender
  • 2x 1.8deg NEMA 17 Stepper motors (40mm length) (4.4Kg/cm torque)
  • Motor cables (14+70 cms length do the job)
  • 2x SG90 servo
  • Arduino Leonardo
  • B-robot Brain Shield
  • Power supply 12v/1.5A (Arduino plug compatible)
  • 2x copper bushing (8x11x22 mm)
  • 10x 6mm M3 bolts
  • 3x 16mm M3 bolts
  • 7x M3 nuts
  • 1x M3 self locking nut

OTHER:

  • 3mm wide/100mm long zip ties (~x5)
  • 5mmØ cable wrap (~90 cms)
  •  Pen: Staedtler whiteboard marker LUMOCOLOR 351 (recommended)

GLASS:

  • Tempered glass: 400x150mm 6mm thick

SHORT INTRODUCTION:

If you got the iBoardbot KIT (glass not included) you should start to assemble your iBoardbot from here. If you got the PREMIUM KIT scroll down until you find the PREMIUM assembly instructions. If you bought the BASIC KIT, take a look to the Bill of Materials above, you will need to get all the listed items but the Arduino Leonardo, the B-robot Brain Shield, stepper motor drivers,stepper motors, servos, motor cables and the whiteboard pen.

IMPORTANT

 The iBoardbot´s REGKEY: this code will be required during the setting up procedure. Do not lose it (take a photo of it). You will find it (depending on your iBoardbot version) here:

regkey location

 

 

iBoardbot KIT ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS:

Below, how everything is set inside the iBoardbot packet you have received.

normal KIT
Unpacking the iBoardbot KIT

 

Use this photo as a reference. It could help you through the Assembly guide
Use this photo as a reference. It could help you through the Assembly guide

Annnnd, here we go…..

1

First, lets start with the drawing header. Pick the parts shown in the photo above. Bolting: 2x 6mm M3 bolts and 2xM3 nuts
servos cut

Cut the servo´s arms as indicated above.

NOTE FOR KICKSTARTER CUSTOMERS: you will find two servos with their “arms” already cut like the image above shows. One will be used for the the lifting mechanism, the other will activate/deactivate the eraser. We have already cut the arms and calibrated them for you, so be careful not rotate their gears accidentally.

2

Pick the WIPER/ERASER servo (shown above). Note the lack of one of its arms3

Place it as indicated above, inside the drawing header. 4

Use one of the screws you will find inside a plastic bag to fix it to the 3D part.

5

Critical point!: Set the servo´s arm as above. Aligned as shown. The servo has been pre-calibrated so you do not need to adjust it later. Use the small bolt you will find inside the plastic bag.

wiper1

 Cut the arm by the 4th hole.

wiper2

You will find two different black velvety stickers (wipers) in a plastic bag. Their textures are slightly different but both make the job nicely. Pick one and stick it to the 3D printed eraser as shown above.

wiper3

Now, use a bolt (red arrow) to fix the servo´s arm to the servo and a screw to fix the eraser to the same arm.

10

ABOVE: It is time for the PEN SUPPORT: fix it using 2x 6mm M3 bolts and two M3 nuts.

11

ABOVE: Now, pick the lifting servo. Note how both arms have to be cut in order to be ready to be placed in the bottom support plastic part (we have cut the servo´s arms for you).12

Run the cables through the aluminium tube: You will need to disconnect the servo´s cable connector (you can use a needle to raise the tabs and pull out the cables) before running the cables through the pipe.13

Now, pass the aluminium pipe through the drawing header.14

Set the servo as indicated above and fix it using two screws.

15

Above: PUSH the tubes inside the sockets. Be gentle. If you feel resistance, twist the tube as you are pushing it forward.  Do not pinch the cables!

CAUTION:

DO NOT FORCE THE ALUMINIUM TUBES. They are easy to bend. If you can not push them into their sockets, twist them as you are pushing forward. They have to be hold tight.

16

Place the servo´s arm as indicated above. This servo has been pre-calibrated before, so you only need to fix it using one small bolt (can be found in the plastic bag). The aluminium tubes have been removed in this photo to show a better point of view. Actually, you can fix this servo´s arm after or before assembling the lateral tubes.17

Above: assemble the aluminium pipes into the X AXIS CARRIAGE (black plastic part). The same, do not force the aluminium pipes to much. Twist/rotate them as you push.

18

Use the two long bolts (16mm m3) and two M3 nuts to fix the ANGLE MOTOR SUPPORT to the HORIZONTAL AXIS CARRIAGE19

Above: the nuts already placed.20

Re-connect the servo connector back in place. The cables order are shown above: BROWN (ground), RED (5 V) and ORANGE (signal)21

There is a small flange that will keep the cables inside the plug. Look at the photo above. The brown cable is being inserted as it should.22

This was the most difficult part of the assembly procedure 🙂23

Fix the 20 teeth pulley to one motor shaft (pick one motor). Keep in mind that the shaft is D-shaped.

The top of the pulley and the top of the shaft have to be levelled (photo below). 
The top of the pulley and the top of the shaft have to be levelled

24

The 42 teeth pulley (black plastic part). In this step, you will need to use a small hammer or similar to push it down to place. It is tight. Be gentle here, use a piece of fabric to not damage the pulley when hammering. 26

Fix the motor to the ANGLE MOTOR SUPPORT using two M3 6mm. Easy…27

Notice how the motor´s connector is oriented to the left (read arrow)28

Fix the BELT SUPPORT to the drawing header using 2x 6mm bolts + 2x M3 nuts.

29

This is how the drawing header looks after all these steps.30

Use a zip tie to hook the servo´s cable to the drawing header.

31

Plug the long black cable (60 cms) to the motor on top of the X AXIS CARRIAGE

32

Use 3x M3 6mm bolts to fix the motor to the TOP LEFT SUPPORT 3D printed part. (Note the motor connector orientation)

33

Time for the ball bearings. Pick the items shown above.

34

Pull the ball bearings into the 3D parts (easy)

35

Using a M3 16mm bolt, put a M3 nut on the bottom of the small ball bearing and tight it up.36

Use a self-locking nut to attach the small ball bearing you have just assembled to the TOP RIGHT SUPPORT 3D printed part. NOTE: the hole is made to hide this nut and has not the same size of the nut, so you will need a thin tool to keep it still as you screw the 16mm bolt.
37

Above: This is how it looks after placing the ball bearing +bolt+nuts. The bearing and the plastic cylinder around it should rotate freely. 38

Fix the remaining large ball bearing (+plastic part)  to the bottom of the drawing arm (where the lifting servo is)

39

The 4 servo extender cables: connect the 30 cm. servo extender cables in pairs (so you have 2 servo extenders of 60 cms each) and plug them into the servo´s output connectors of the LIFT servo and WIPER servo.

Wrap around the servos cable + motor cable the “cable wrap”

servo connector

cables

When connecting the servo extender cable, check the polarities! See the image above. That is the right way to connect the servos

40

Yes! the drawing arm is ready. Put is aside.

41

Pull the stainless steel bar into the TOP RIGHT SUPPORT and we are done here (for now).


ELECTRONICS + CASE

42

Pick the electronics bag and take the Brain shield (blue PCB+Arduino Leonardo -On the left on the photo above-) and the stepper motor drivers – two RED small PCBs on the right-

43

Place the two stepper motor drivers as shown above: the tiny screws pointing to the right side of the BLUE Brain shield. Check it twice!A4988-stepper-driver

Stick the heatsinks on top of the stepper motor drivers.

44

Above: Electronic case parts. Top+ bottom (acrylic) and laterals (white colour in this case)

47

Above: this is how the case fits onto the LEFT LEG of the iBoardbot. This LEFT LEG is taller than the RIGHT and has a tab and two holes to retain the CASE in place.

48

Above: Two long bolts (16 mm) passing through the LEFT LEG. These two bolts will be screwed into the laterals parts (see the image below).

45

Use ONLY two short bolts/nuts/washers to fix the Arduino Leonardo to the BOTTOM of the CASE: the ones indicated above with red circles.

Four long bolts will fix the Electronic case´s laterals and the CASE itself to the LEFT LEG. The photo above helps to understand this. The yellow arrows point to the long  bolts.

46

Above: detail of the bolt+washer fixing the Arduino Leonardo to the case.

For now, do not mount the top side of the Electronic case, leave it open. You will still need to connect the some cables to the electronics.

49

It is time for the glass. Remove the sheath and the plastic corners

50

Inside the same plastic bag where you found the wipers, there are also two adhesive plasters (their colour may vary). We will use them to keep the legs attached to the glass.

51

Set the adhesive plasters as indicated above.

plasters

The iBoardbot´s glass and the side adhesive plasters already placed.

52

Photo above: this is how the left leg is fitted to the glass. You will only have to push the glass gently into the leg. But do not do this yet. First, you have to fix the electronics case to the this leg.

 53

Pick the two bronze bushings and pass the steel bar through them.

54

Fit the X AXIS CARRIAGE as indicated above (the bushings should fit perfectly on it)

55

Use two zip ties to attach the bushings to the carriage. NOTE: the zip ties will just not allow the X AXIS CARRIAGE to fall if you move your iBoardbot. That is their only function.

There is no need to tight them up too much. Actually, if you do so, friction could compromise the free movement of the carriage.

56

Yes, you are almost there… Now, attach the motor+aluminium pulley and the plastic part to the steel bar as above

57

This is how it looks now.

You should move the drawing header without friction
You should move the drawing header without friction

If you feel some resistance to the drawing header movement try this:

  • Force its movement pulling it up and down during 30-40 seconds. It will erode a little the PLA plastic conduits, letting the drawing header to slide better.

 

58

Belts: Place the end of the short belt (you have a long -90cms- and a short -50 cms- belt) on the drawing header (red arrow pointing at it).

59

If the belt is too long, just cut it. It has to be tight (but not too much!, you can adjust its tension later)

60

Above: belt set on the Y AXIS.

61

Next: hook the X AXIS belt (the long one). Above: Back side of the X AXIS CARRIAGE and the long belt partially attached.

62

Above: Belt completely hooked. Cut it if it pokes out.

64

Motor cables: The long cable (green arrow) goes to the Y AXIS motor. The short cable (red arrow) to the  X AXIS MOTOR / TOP LEFT SUPPORT. Take a look to the scheme below:

connection scheme

65

These photos above indicate how the servos and motors are connected to the Brain Shield.

66

Now, it is time to place the top case and screw it using 4x short bolts. Let the cables run as indicated above.

67

Fix all the cables using a zip tie to the case.

68

Wrap them all and use another zip tie to fix them to the X AXIS CARRIAGE

69

Above: photo of the cables and the zip tie

70

Well… there you go! As you have noticed, the electronics case is not touching the glass. That will not let you (nor anyone) notice it from the iboardbot´s front71

Annnnd this would be the moment to connect the power supply jack to the power plug, but before doing that you have to check some things:

resting and start position

This is the standing-by and start position of the drawing header: At the very left of the X axis and at the bottom of the Y axis. Push the drawing header until you reach that position.

pen assembled

Now, insert the pen into the pen support on the drawing header. Above: the photo indicates the right way to do it. Push it (carefully) to the very end.

notification

Done! your iBoardbot is ready
Done! your iBoardbot is ready

Perfect! now…

GO TO iBoardbot Connectivity wizard guide


 

ASSEMBLING THE iBoardbot PREMIUM KIT

From here, you will find the instructions to assemble your iBoardbot PREMIUM Kit. You will need a small star screwdriver and maybe small pliers to hook the belts.

Here we go. First, the:

ELECTRONICS + CASE

42

Pick the electronics bag and take the Brain shield (blue PCB+Arduino Leonardo -On the left on the photo above-) and the stepper motor drivers – two RED small PCBs on the right-

43

Place the two stepper motor drivers as shown above: the tiny screws pointing to the right side of the BLUE Brain shield. Check it twice!A4988-stepper-driver

Stick the heatsinks on top of the stepper motor drivers.

44

Above: Electronic case parts. Top+ bottom (acrylic) and laterals (white colour in this case)

47

Above: this is how the case fits onto the LEFT LEG of the iBoardbot. This LEFT LEG is taller than the RIGHT and has a tab and two holes to retain the CASE in place.

48

Above: Two long bolts (16 mm) passing through the LEFT LEG. These two bolts will be screwed into the laterals parts (see the image below).

45

Use ONLY two short bolts/nuts/washers to fix the Arduino Leonardo to the BOTTOM of the CASE: the ones indicated above with red circles.

Four long bolts will fix the Electronic case´s laterals and the CASE itself to the LEFT LEG. The photo above helps to understand this. The yellow arrows point to the long  bolts.

46

Above: detail of the bolt+washer fixing the Arduino Leonardo to the case.

For now, do not mount the top side of the Electronic case, leave it open. You will still need to connect the some cables to the electronics.

49

It is time for the glass. Remove the sheath and the plastic corners

50

Inside the same plastic bag where you found the wipers, there are also two adhesive plasters (their colour may vary). We will use them to keep the legs attached to the glass.

51

Set the adhesives plasters as indicated above. One for each side of the glass.

plasters

The iBoardbot´s glass and the side adhesive plasters already set.

52

Photo above: this is how the left leg is fitted to the glass. You will only have to push the glass gently into the leg. But do not do this yet. First, you have to fix the electronics case to the this leg.

39

Connecting the 4 servo extender cables: connect the 30 cm. servo extender cables in pairs (so you have 2 servo extenders of 60 cms each) and plug them into the servo´s output connectors of the LIFT servo and WIPER servo.

Wrap around the servos cable + motor cable the “cable wrap”

servo connector

cables

When connecting the servo extender cable, check the polarities! See the image above. That is the right way to connect the servos

55

Above: two zip ties are fixing the bronze bushings to the carriage (yellow arrows). NOTE: the zip ties will not allow the X AXIS CARRIAGE to fall if you move your iBoardbot. That is their only function.

wiper2

You will find two different black velvety stickers (the wipers) in a plastic bag. Their textures are slightly different but both make the job nicely. Pick one and stick it to the 3D printer eraser as shown above (the eraser has been detached in this photo)

56

 Now, attach the motor+aluminium pulley and the plastic part to the steel bar as shown above (and wrap the “cable wrap” all around the cables).

57

This is how it looks now.

You should move the drawing header without friction
You should move the drawing header without friction

58

Belts: Place the end of the short belt (you have a long -90cms- and a short -50 cms- belt) on the drawing header (red arrow pointing at it).

59

If the belt is too long, just cut it. It has to be tight (but not too much!, you can adjust its tension later)

60

Above: belt set on the Y AXIS.

61

Next: hook the X AXIS belt (the long one). Above: Back side of the X AXIS CARRIAGE and the long belt partially attached.

62

Above: Belt completely hooked. Cut it if it pokes out.

64

Motor cables: The long cable (green arrow) goes to the Y AXIS motor. The short cable (red arrow) to the  X AXIS MOTOR / TOP LEFT SUPPORT. Take a look to the scheme below:

connection scheme

65

These photos above indicate how the servos and motors are connected to the Brain Shield.

66

Now, it is time to place the top case and screw it using 4x short bolts. Let the cables run as indicated above.

67

Fix all the cables using a zip tie to the case.

68

Wrap them all and use another zip tie to fix them to the X AXIS CARRIAGE

69

Above: photo of the cables and the zip tie

70

Well… there you go! As you have noticed, the electronics case is not touching the glass. That will not let you (nor anyone) notice it from the iboardbot´s front71

Annnnd this would be the moment to connect the power supply jack to the power plug, but before doing that, you have to check some things:

resting and start position

This is the standing-by and start position of the drawing header: At the very left of the X axis and at the bottom of the Y axis. Push the drawing header until you reach that position.

pen assembled

Now, insert the pen into the pen support on the drawing header. Above: the photo indicates the right way to do it. Push it (carefully) to the very end.

notification

Done! your iBoardbot is ready

Perfect! now…

GO TO iBoardbot Connectivity wizard guide

 



TROUBLESHOOTING


My iBoardbot is now drawing or wiping the glass correctly. What is going on? 

  1. Even pre-calibrating the servos, a minor maladjustment could be present in every servo. After the starting-up procedure (after turning the iBoardbot ON, you will hear three consecutive hisses coming from the wiper servo), the standing-by positions of the lifting servo and the wiper servo should be as indicated below:
placing the PEN
Left: side view of the drawing header during the standing-by Middle: top view Right: Front view
  • Inside the red circle: the LIFTING SERVO in the standing-by position: slightly off the glass.
  • Inside the green circle: the WIPER SERVO in the standing-by position. Touching the glass. This is the erasing position, the surface in contact with the glass is the maximum.

if your servos are misaligned, you will have to disassemble them and set them again as indicated in the photo.

2. Check you have inserted correctly the PEN into the PEN holder:

pen assembled
Left: not completely inserted Right: The pen touch the physical limit (set correctly)

Grinding noise after a movement?

Check you are placing the drawing header in the “START POSITION” before turning the iBoardbot ON. The grinding sounds might come from after stepper motors are reaching the physical limits of the board.

resting and start position
This is the iBoardbot starting position. Make sure you are placing the drawing header as indicated before turning it on

 

I can only see a WIFI signal called “AI-THINKER_XXXX” instead the “JJROBOTS_IBB”?

Upload the iBoardbot CODE again to the ARDUINO LEONARDO following these steps:
a) Install the Arduino IDE (v 1.6.5 recommmended) in your PC from (skip this step if you have the Arduino IDE already installed)
This iBoardbot code has been tested and developed on IDE version 1.6.5 and later
b)  Get the main CODE (https://github.com/jjrobots/iBoardbot/tree/master/code or from here) and extract the files into a folder called “iBoardBot_107”
c) Compile and send the code to the Arduino Leonardo
  1. Open your Arduino IDE
  2. Open the main code in /iBoardBot_107/iBoardBot_107.ino
  3. Connect your Leonardo board with the USB to the PC
  4. Note: If this is the first time you connect a Leonardo board to your PC maybe you will need to install the driver.
  5. Select the board Leonardo (tools->board)
  6. Select the serial port that appears on the tools->Serial port
Send the code to the board (clink on arrow pointing to the right):
upload