IMPORTANT 1

BEFORE STARTING: Most of this Camera slider KIT´s elements have been “3D printed”. The “official” KIT comes with PLA Ingeo 870 printed parts, much more durable and with higher resistance to impact than the regular PLA. Of course, you can print the parts by yourself in ABS or PLA but keeping this in mind: You can break it if you apply too much force or tight a screw more that you should. We will let you know, during this assembly guide, when you can tighten the screws as much as you can or where you should just fix a part to another not forcing it at all.

Click/Tap on the image below to view an interactive 3D model of the Camera Slider. “A 3D-picture is worth a thousand words”



CAMERA SLIDER KIT BILL OF MATERIALS (BOM)

3D printed parts SET1
NEMA 17 stepper motor (MT-1703HS168A or equivalent)2
MOTOR CABLE (70 cms)1
MOTOR CABLE (14 cms)1
16 teeth GT2 pulley1
20 teeth GT2 pulley1
Circular Ball bearing 6002RS or 6002ZZ1
Timing belt GT2 (150cm for a 700mm rail) + 200mm GT2 ring belt1+1
DEVIA control Board (or equivalent Arduino M0, ESP8266 + 3xstepper motor shield)1
USB cable 1m (micro USB connector)1
TMC2208 Ultra Silent motor driver + aluminium heatsinks (long version)2
Camera Swivel1
Anodized Aluminium profile (2020 V-shape)1
Wheel bearing (V-shape)3
Smartphone holder + camera screw (short)1
12V/2A Power supply with 2.1mm POWER JACK1
M3 bolts (10mm,15mm and 20mm) + nuts
M5 25mm bolts3
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Insert the M5 25mm bolts + Wheel bearing into their sockets as indicated below. Do not over-tighten the bolts.

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This is how it should look. Check if there is burr on the 3D printed parts if you feel friction when spinning the wheels.

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Insert one M3 nut and capture it using a 16mm M3 bolt. This bolt will let you adjust the distance between the wheels in the case there is some tolerance discrepancy after printing the parts. Adjust it only when the carriage has been placed on the aluminum rail.

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Place the TOP part on top of the BOTTOM part and use 4x M3 10 mm bolts to fix it. Insert the 6002RS ball bearing as indicated above. IMPORTANT: The 6002RS has to be tight. You can even glue it to its support if you feel it is loose.

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This is the moment to adjust the bolt in the carriage with the idea of making it stable. Move it back and forth: all the wheels should be spinning but you should not feel resistance or hear any noise. Force the carriage and check if all the wheels are kept inside the aluminum rail channels.

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Insert the 3D printed “PULLEY 80 teeth” as above. Capture it with the CAP and a M3 10mm bolt. The same goes for the pulley: it has to be tight around the 6002RS ball bearing. Glue it to the ball bearing if that is not the case.

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  1. Place the motor as indicated and hold it using 4x M3 6mm bolts (but let them loose)
  2. Place the 16 teeth pulley on its shaft and, at the same time, run the 200mm GT2 belt around the pulley
  3. When everything has been set, push the motor “back” so the belt gets tense. Once there, screw the bolts fixing the motor position.
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Top view of the carriage at this point. Check the orientation of the motor’s connector.

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Bottom view of the carriage.

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Now take the camera screw and the “SCREW CAPTURING RING” and do as above. The screw´s head will stay in place thanks to this 3D printed part. Now you can attach the PULLEY TOP to the SCREW CAPTURING RING using 4x M3 10mm bolts

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If you want more flexibility when pointing the camera, use the camera´s swivel. It will let you adjust the camera tilt / orientation easily

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This is how the carriage looks on the rail. We still have to run the timing belt. Check the steps below

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Fix the NEMA17 motor to the MOTOR END part and fix it using 4x M3 15mm bolts.

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Attach and fix the 20 teeth pulley to the shaft. The top of the shaft has to be levelled with the pulley.

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Use 2x M3 10mm bolts to join the PULLEY END LEGS to the PULLEY END

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Push the PULLEY END into the aluminium profile. You may need the mallet (or equivalent). Take out, temporarily, the pulley if you think you can damage it, in the process. At this point, do not fully insert the aluminum profile into the PULLEY END.

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Run the timing belt around the pulley and back to the aluminum profile. Now it is time to push the PULLEY END completely (make use of the mallet). Be gentle!

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Capture the timing belt end as indicated. You may need to use pliers at this point. Push the belt to the very end so it is fully inserted, otherwise it will touch the rails when the carriage is moving back and forth. Insert a nut and 10mm bolt as in the photo. That bolt, will keep the belt in place.

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Check that the belt is coming out freely. Any friction here between the belt and the aluminum rail will compromise the stability of the carriage.

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Pass it around the 20 teeth pulley as the image and use the mallet to fully insert the MOTOR END part into the aluminum pulley.

NOTE: Do not pay attention to the electronics already placed. That will come later.

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Now: pass the belt through its channel. Bend the tip of the belt upwards a little. That will help you to “embellish” it into the “capturing channel”

Tighten the belt, and at the same time, fully screw the bolt. Cut the remaining timing belt

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Time to place the electronics. Check the next photo as well, it shows how to put the electronic’s case. Use 1x M3 10mm bolt for the back side of the DEVIA control board (the one I am pointing to). Screw it as shown, that will fix the protective case to the PCB.

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Now, flip the board and place it as the image, then attach it to the MOTOR END part using a 10mm bolt (upper left corner hole of the board) and 20mm bolt for the other hole, the one that goes through the protecting case. Two bolts will fix the control board to the MOTOR END piece. Use two M3x10mm to attach the MOTOR LEGS to the MOTOR END.

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NOTE: you may need to adjust the output current delivered by the TMC motor drivers. Do that before placing the heatsinks. More info at the very end of this page

Place the heatsinks on top and insert the stepper motor drivers in their sockets. The heatsinks are quite bulky, so this is important: Do not touch the metal headers of the top face of the steppers with the heatsinks. That might create a short circuit damaging the module.

Check the correct orientation of the stepper motor drivers and motor cables.

Camera SLIDER electronic connection diagram

This is how everything is connected. Check the stepper motor drivers and cable’s connectors orientation (twice!)

connecting the motors to the DEVIA control board edited
TMC2208 detail

Detail: The TMC2208 motor drivers already connected.

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Now connect the RAIL MOTOR to the control board. Use the 14cm cable

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Do the same with the PLATFORM MOTOR. Use 2 zip ties to fix the cable to the MOTOR END part as the photo. That will keep the cable away from the moving carriage.

NOTE: this step is important, “capturing” the cables will protect the motors headers from being pulled off.

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Done

NOTE: The photo shows the camera slider attached to a tripod. You can easily do that with this 3D modelled part + 2xM3 15mm bolts + 2 M3 Nuts. Every tripod has its own fixing system. This 3D part has been created for a standard camera screw 1/4″-20 but you may need to create yours.

Camera swivel and smartphone holder

A helping element of the KIT is the smartphone holder, you can attach it to the popping-out camera screw. Alternatively, fixing that holder to camera swivel, will allow you to tilt the smartphone to any point of interest easier.

HOW TO UPLOAD the ARDUINO CODE to the DEVIA CONTROL BOARD

NOTE: The jjRobots KIT comes with the DEVIA Control Board already programmed, so you can skip this step if you got it.

a) Install the Arduino IDE on your PC from here (skip this step if you have the Arduino IDE already installed) This code has been tested and developed on IDE version 1.6.5 and later versions. If you have a problem compiling the code, let us know

b) Download all the arduino files , extract the files inside the same folder in your hard drive  

c) Compile and send the code to the DEVIA control board:

  1. Open your Arduino IDE
  2. Open the main code in \CameraSlider_vX_M0 \CameraSlider_vX_M0.ino
  3. Connect your DEVIA board with the USB cable to the PC
  4. Note: If this is the first time you connect an Arduino board to your PC maybe you might need to install the driver.
  5. Select the board Arduino/Genuino ZERO (native USB port). In the TOOLS menu->board (You might need to install the “Arduino SAMD Boards (32-bits ARM Cortex-M0+)” libraries. Go to Tools->Board->Boards Manager… and install the “Arduino SAMD Boards (32-bits ARM Cortex-M0+)”
  6. Select the serial port that appears on the tools->Serial port
  7. Send the code to the board (UPLOAD button: Arrow pointing to the RIGHT)
upload
Selecting the right board
Selecting the right board before uploading the code

d) Done!

IMPORTANT 1

IMPORTANT: The TMC2208 stepper motor drivers are top-notch electronic modules, but they might need to be adjusted to deliver the correct amount of current to the motors. Too much current will overheat the motors. We strongly recommend adjusting the current output to 0.7 A per motor. But how to do that? This wiki provides very good information about it

IF YOU GOT THE CAMERA SLIDER KIT FROM US, the TMC2208 stepper motor drivers are already adjusted. So there is not need to tinker with them 😉

TMC2208 current setting
Place the stepper motor driver in their sockets on the DEVIA control board and connect the 12V power supply to the board. Measure the voltage between the indicated points above. Use the screw provided with the KIT or get a tiny one (3mm wide). Rotate, anticlockwise, the screw of the potentiometer just a little and check the voltage. Once the voltage has been set to 0.8-0.9 V you are done and the stepper motor drivers are ready to move the camera slider not wasting power as heat.

RMS Current (A): 0.7 <- This is what we want
 Reference Voltage (Vref):  0.9V

But… I do not have a multimeter! How am I suppose to do this?. Why did you not send the stepper motor drivers already adjusted?

With the KIT, we supply a tiny screwdriver. With it, just rotate anticlockwise, just approx. 20 degrees, the screw tagged in the image above as “potentiometer

20 degress

That should be enough to reduce the output current.

The reason for not adjusting them to this voltage by default: these drivers can be used with other jjRobots projects and with the default configuration they will work just fine. So, we decided to leave them with their initial “settings”.


Control APP

Get the control APP for your iOS or Android device (They are free):

goog play credits 1
itunes available

Control APP user guide


Troubleshooting:

The slider is making a weird sound and vibrates when the carriage moves

Check the pulleys and the timing belt, are they aligned? Is the timing belt touching a 3D printed part? If so, re-adjust everything. If the noise continues, check if the motor drivers are delivering enough current.

I can not connect to the CAMERA SLIDER from my smartphone

Check the Control APP user guide. Everything related with the control APP is explained there.


Useful LINKS: