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(@chrismhs)
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Joined: 1 year ago
Posts: 2
Topic starter  

Hey – love the product and the build, but I have found that there are some vibrations when the camera is in motion. This is fine for timelapses with high shutter speeds but it won’t be good enough for astrophotography or anything in real time.

Has anyone got ideas on how to reduce the vibration? Either in code or something in the build?


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(@justjason)
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Joined: 2 years ago
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What stepper drivers are you using?


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(@robotn1)
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Joined: 5 years ago
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Use the TCM2208 stepper motor drivers. They are silent and “interpolate” steps so the vibration will be drastically reduced.


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(@chrismhs)
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Joined: 1 year ago
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Topic starter  

I bought the kit, so the A4988 drivers. Will get hold of a couple of TMC2208 and give it a go! Thanks!


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(@robotn1)
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Joined: 5 years ago
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I bought the kit, so the A4988 drivers. Will get hold of a couple of TMC2208 and give it a go! Thanks!

Remember to place the heatsinks on the TMC, they got hot and can get damaged if they do not dissipate the heat properly


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(@maxmar)
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Joined: 1 year ago
Posts: 4
 

First question:
Can the A4988 motor drivers simply be replaced by the TMC2208 without any changes on the code and the DEVIA control board?
If I have seen it correctly, the TMC2208 has more circuit board legs than the TMC2208 which might be in contact with the DEVIA board and cause some trouble?

Second question:
Would the DRV8825 be also a good alternative to the A4988? This replacement should be plug and play without the need to adapt anything in the code, if I know correctly.


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(@robotn1)
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Joined: 5 years ago
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First question:
Can the A4988 motor drivers simply be replaced by the TMC2208 without any changes on the code and the DEVIA control board?
If I have seen it correctly, the TMC2208 has more circuit board legs than the TMC2208 which might be in contact with the DEVIA board and cause some trouble?

Second question:
Would the DRV8825 be also a good alternative to the A4988? This replacement should be plug and play without the need to adapt anything in the code, if I know correctly.

Yes, you can replace one for the other.They are 100% compatible. But the motors will spin in the opposite direction. If you want to “solve” this, connect the motor cable backwards on the DEVIA control board.

And yes, you can use DRV8825 but the TMC2208 are way better talking about noise, step control and smoothness.
NOTE: you may need to adjust the output current of the TMC2208. By default they deliver 1.3-1.6 Amperes and that is TOO MUCH. They will get too hot.


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(@stubby)
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Joined: 1 year ago
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I had the same minor initial noise as reported by other users, and followed the suggestions in the documentation, without real success. I finally figured out a quick solution that worked for me. The black 3D-printed plastic pulley was slightly out of round, and ever so slightly off center, so I filed it down and manually re-shaped it. This helped, but the ultimate solution was to swap out the black pulley for the 2nd orange one that is included in the slider kit. The orange one had much better tolerances; maybe it’s a different kind of plastic.

Also, the pictures do not clearly explain whether the flange on the pulley should be mounted “down” or “up”, and it’s hard to tell with the pulley being the same color as the end base piece. I tried it both ways; it definitely is better mounted “down” so the timing belt doesn’t slip off. Good luck.


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(@robotn1)
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Joined: 5 years ago
Posts: 722
 

I had the same minor initial noise as reported by other users, and followed the suggestions in the documentation, without real success. I finally figured out a quick solution that worked for me. The black 3D-printed plastic pulley was slightly out of round, and ever so slightly off center, so I filed it down and manually re-shaped it. This helped, but the ultimate solution was to swap out the pulley for the 2nd orange one that is included in the slider kit. The orange one had much better tolerances; maybe it’s a different kind of plastic.

Also, the pictures do not clearly explain whether the flange on the pulley should be mounted “down” or “up”, and it’s hard to tell with the pulley being the same color as the end base piece. I tried it both ways; it definitely is better mounted “down” so the timing belt doesn’t slip off. Good luck.

Thanks for the feedback. We will update the assembly guide with a notice regarding how to place the ball bearing “envelope”.

Regarding the orange and black pulley: we detected that the black one was printed with some layers off, so we rapidly added a good one (the orange) to the 3D plastic parts KITs. As, due to certain circumstances, we could not remove the “bad” one, we have sent two units.

With the “THANK YOU FOR YOUR ORDER” message we sent a warning about this problem ,but it looks it is not getting to the MAKERs as it should :- Sorry for that


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(@charles-ross)
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Joined: 1 year ago
Posts: 12
 

I’ve been on to other projects for months now but I did purchase some clamps designed to lock down on 8mm round bar. It wasn’t easy to find.
When I get back to it I’ll reprint the end legs to allow mounting 4 of these, 2 at each end, to secure these clamps into the legs. One feature these would allow which is why I wanted them is to shorten the length of the functional track by sliding the legs closer together to remove some flex from the bars without having to cut the bars shorter. Drill the blind holes for the bars completely through to the outside of the small leg and bolt up the clamps on the face of the leg. That’s my plan anyway.

Of course the belt would need to be brought in shorter but that’s easy. BTW, I never cut my original provided belt. The excess is tucked up under the carriage. I’m running 800 mm long rods at the moment. That might be part of my problem with camera image jitters.

*** I can’t attach an image to a reply apparently but you can search a company Voltatek in Quebec Canada and search out “8mm linear rod support clamp”
if this URL I’m pasting in doesn’t pass the forum sniff test.
https://voltatek.ca/linear-shafts-supports/44-shf8-8mm-shaft-support-linear-rail-cnc-router-3d-printer-shf08.html


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(@charles-ross)
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Joined: 1 year ago
Posts: 12
 

Several advances to report though I’m not where I want to be on absolute stability.
1/ I redesigned (in Tinkercad) the end legs with these changes:
Added a “flat bar” section to the outside faces, where I can bolt on those 8mm rod clamps. It also acts as a stiffening rib and the legs definitely have less twisting and leg spread when pressure is applied
2/ the middle horizontal sections are lowered so the belt is now level with the rods. I always thought it strange the belts were higher at the legs because the belt is equal with the rods on the moving slider platform.
Now the slider can travel up to the edge of the legs and there is no binding of the belt when the slider approaches the ends.

With the rods able to pass through the ends and be clamped at any length, I ran trials with the distance at approx. 500mm and less. I did more trials with no rotation tracking, just panning along the rails. This made the videos more stable but I still get jitters. For landscapes or people across the room this might be passable. For closeup products, not to my expectations. I am experimenting with the camera’s stabilization settings being on or off.

I think manual focus/manual touch focus helps because the distance to the objects wasn’t changing, the camera was just traversing pointing straight ahead, yet on auto focus product labels were going in and out of focus so it seemed and there should be no reason for it to need to do that.

If anyone is interested I can pass on the Tinkercad files of the legs, ideally in a way you can pick apart my construction and fine tune it for yourself. e.g. the stepper motor will touch down on the table surface unless you attach some rubber feet to the legs which I do anyway so the whole slider doesn’t move about.


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(@robotn1)
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Joined: 5 years ago
Posts: 722
 

Could you upload photos of your improvements please?


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(@jakepaulo32)
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Joined: 6 months ago
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I’d like to ask you to share your Tinkercad files. They will be very helpful 🙂


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(@charles-ross)
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Joined: 1 year ago
Posts: 12
 

I haven’t been able to attach or insert images to posts. Do I have to host them somewhere else and insert some HTML to them?
Also Tinkercad only seems to allow sharing access to my account’s working files, like a cooperative project. I’d sooner just send a free and clear copy for somebody so my version is not altered. However I think once the photos are seen, a capable Tinkercad user could do at least if not a better job of slicing up the original to make the changes.
Somebody let me know and I’ll get on it.


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(@peter-oksa)
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Joined: 1 year ago
Posts: 8
 

Hi Guys,

Work in progress but it should be available in few day…
I was sick about instability of the whole setup, so i designed my own parts from scratch. Compatible with Devia Board (same 1:4 reduction ratio), no support needed while printing, no backlash due to 200mm belt, 4 wheels (two eccentric nuts),rotating platform is siting on two bearings tighten together (one at rotating platform + one at gantry plate ), can be used upside down, very stable and tough, mount is swappable for camera screw or gopro mount, optional covers , no vibration due to friction of the rail belt, hidden walls inside the gantry plate (platform as well) for toughness and less infill, etc… Actually i am finishing legs these days. Motor and pulley ends are finished (same “futuristic” design 😉 but no photos yet)

Is anyone of you able to create sketch for MIT APP INVENTOR (or Blynk)? I am thinking about A to B solution with dynamic time range based on the travel distance, manual mode, stop motion. (i can easily implement end stop/s) i know there are some issues with timing stepper motors but i am not skilled enough in programing arduino sketches… JJrobots sketch and app are configured perfectly (range from 15sec to 13hours) but the app is kind of limited…
I would pay for it if anybody is able to program a sketch for MIT APP with same simultaneous rotation logic.

Here are some pics:
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